A
word about Artificial Incubation
If you decide to incubate the eggs artificially, you will have better
hatchability if you allow the parents to incubate for the first two
weeks before you move the eggs to the incubator. This works well for
pairs that will sit on the eggs but not feed their chicks. Of course,
if the parents won't sit at all, you will have to take your chances
from day one. Before you pull the eggs, get your incubator set up and
running, and allow several hours for the temperature and humidity to
stabilize. When you are ready to move the eggs, wash your hands carefully
so that you don't transfer bacteria or other pathogens onto the shell.
Remember, parrot eggs are extremely sensitive to vibration, so handle
them slowly and gently. I usually make a cradle of soft facial tissues
in a shallow bowl and nestle the eggs carefully into the tissues to
carry them.
From The parrot's Breeder's Answer Book
by Gayle A. Soucek.
Bird
Breeding preparations
It is vital to offer a choice of nesting sites to pairs that have not
nested before, so they can choose the locality that suits them best.
If the nesting options are unsuitable, a pair is simple unlikely to
show any interest in breeding. This also applies in a mixed collection,
where there may be too much disturbance from the other occupants to
encourage a pair to nest. Bird Breeding results are unusually better
if compatible pairs are housed alone, or in colonies comprised of a
single species in the case of finches such as nuns.
From The Cage Bird. Question and answer
manual by David Alderton
